Where heat pumps pay off in Alaska

Every place on the map is the area closest to one of 1,983 weather stations. For each one we ran the HeatPushers home model (the same code you can use for your own house) with the past year of hourly weather at that station (2025-10-28 to 2026-10-28) and the state's average electricity and fuel prices from the EIA (the US average where the EIA has no figure for the state).

• The house: 1,800 sq ft, 2 stories, built 1970 to 1989 (wall insulation R-14, attic R-16), 3 bedrooms, thermostat at 70°F. The heat pump heats the whole house.
• Heat today: gas furnace (80% efficient); oil boiler (85% efficient); propane furnace (92% efficient); electric baseboard (100% efficient). Furnace houses have ducts inside the heated space; boiler and baseboard houses have no ducts, so only ductless heat pumps count there.
• The heat pump: out of 772 models sold online, the one with the lowest 10-year cost (price, installation and energy), in the number of units that costs least. The old heat stays and takes over in the hours it is cheaper to run.
• Installation: a contractor at $2,500 per indoor unit, or yourself: $350 of tools once and $300 of materials per indoor unit.
• Payback: what it costs up front divided by what it saves a year. Under 10 years means it pays for itself within the lifetime we assume.
• Heating only. Cooling is left out. A heat pump also cools: against old central AC that saves a bit more; in a house without AC, using it in summer costs extra.
• Not included: rebates and tax credits, electrical upgrades, new ductwork, heat-pump electricity rates and financing.
• Shares of ZIP codes: each place counts by how many US ZIP codes are closest to its station, so cities count more than empty desert.

Your house is not this house. Size, insulation, prices and what you already own change the answer, often a lot. Use "Model your own house here" on the map, or start at the home model. More: full method and how we know.